DevaCurl & Why The Anti-Shampoo Wave is Leaving You Baldheaded
Earlier in 2020 popular curly hair brand, DevaCurl came under fire due to complaints that the product was causing scalp problems, hair loss, and damage to natural curl patterns. Those complaints became to make headlines after DevaCurl influencer Ayesha Malik spoke out about her experience with the product claiming it had become damaged after years of using and even promoting the product. Prior to Devacurl facing criticism and making headlines popular Cowash brand, Wen, faced a class-action lawsuit with where users sued for hair loss caused by the product ended with a 2016 settlement.
As someone who has used DevaCurl and even visited their salons, I don't necessarily think the product ingredients are the issue. As someone with a sensitive scalp, I have learned to avoid the no shampoo wave and to use co-washing in-between my shampoo sessions. From my own experience exclusively co-washing lead to scalp issues that resulted in me having to use a prescribed shampoo every day for a month which then impacted the health of my curls. In reference to my DevaCurl salon experience, my hair looked super hydrated but it was still dirty and I ended up shampooing my hair the day after so it was a service I could have skipped out on. In a video done by popular beauty journalist Joselyn Davis, she reaches out to a Devacurl hairstylist from their popular salon in NYC and he claims the issues that DevaCurl users were having were caused by incorrect cleansing. In a video done by a celebrity hairstylist Brad Mondo who also has his own hair care line, he credits then complaints caused by DevaCurl to avoiding cleansing. The overall consensus seems to be that a co-wash is to be used in-between shampoo sessions and not to replace shampoo. Harsh shampoos with sulfates are to always be avoided and a gentle sulfate-free shampoo should be a part of everyone's cleansing routine.
What is DevaCurl?
Devacurl is a popular curly hair care company that specializes in dry hair cuts and no shampoo hair products. The no-poo line offers a gentle hair cleanser for wavy, curly, and coily textures. Since the oils from your scalp have a harder time traveling down curly strands, textured hair tends to be on the dryer side. Due to textured hair being dryer co-washing and cleansing conditioners have become popular alternatives to traditional shampoo and conditioner routines. However, the terminology of the cleansing conditioner might be somewhat misleading. Oil breaks down oil but there needs to be some friction and at least 60 seconds of working the product into your scalp and 60 seconds of rinsing in order to remove build-up. However, exclusively co-washing or co-washing incorrectly can have the opposite effect leading to product build-up, scalp irritation (for sensitive scalps), and oily roots.
Possible Reasons on Why Deva is Causing Problems:
1)Build Up
Since developing product buildup is possible for those who have sworn off shampoo completely. Product build-up can lead to dull hair that is limp and has less curl definition than usual. Build-up can also affect how hair can absorb moisture. The most frightening side effect of product build-up is hair loss caused by clogged hair follicles. Many of the side effects of product build-up are similar to the complaints of former DevaCurl users and influencers who have now denounced the brand.
2) Sensitive Scalp
If you already have a sensitive scalp co-washing could lead to irritation. If your scalp is sensitive then a product like DevaCurl or a co-wash, in general, is not a product that should be used exclusively.
Shampoo with a regular cleansing shampoo once a week or every other week. When you shampoo always use a moisturizing conditioner. Then once clean and treated use water base product(leave-in conditioners) for moisture to reassure protection and hydration while styling.
2) Sensitive Scalp
If you already have a sensitive scalp co-washing could lead to irritation. If your scalp is sensitive then a product like DevaCurl or a co-wash, in general, is not a product that should be used exclusively.
Ask a Professional
In order to find out more information about natural hair care and co-washing in general, I decided to get a professional opinion. I contacted Brittany York from Roots Hair Salon in Chicago to ask her a couple of questions about co-washing and natural hair care overall. This is what she had to say:
What are your thoughts on completely removing the shampoo from your hair care regiment? Is that safe?
Brittany: Yes, avoiding shampooing is unhealthy. It is a myth that cleansing conditioners are better than regular shampooing and that oils are best for moisture.
What exactly happens to people who have bought into the idea that not shampooing is healthy?
Brittany: Not shampooing properly can cause build-up on the scalp and the cuticle. That build-up can cause dryness, irritation, and/or inflammation that can cause breakage/hair loss.
Shampoo with a regular cleansing shampoo once a week or every other week. When you shampoo always use a moisturizing conditioner. Then once clean and treated use water base product(leave-in conditioners) for moisture to reassure protection and hydration while styling.
So what should people use cleansing conditioners for if it is not to replace shampoo?
Brittany: When using a cleansing conditioner remember that it is equivalent to using a “dry shampoo spray”. Cleansing conditioner only helps to stretch/reset a style or pre-rinse extra product off the outer layer of the cuticle. Cleansing conditioners are for in between regular washes and help save on styling time. Cleansing conditioners are not the solution for a clean and healthy scalp and hair.
What brands would you recommend for natural hair care?
Brittany: Some Product brands that I like: Design Essentials,Miellé organics, Pattern Beauty (at Ulta),Camille Rose, Aveda, and Kera care.
My thoughts:
As someone who has used DevaCurl and even visited their salons, I don't necessarily think the product ingredients are the issue. As someone with a sensitive scalp, I have learned to avoid the no shampoo wave and to use co-washing in-between my shampoo sessions. From my own experience exclusively co-washing lead to scalp issues that resulted in me having to use a prescribed shampoo every day for a month which then impacted the health of my curls. In reference to my DevaCurl salon experience, my hair looked super hydrated but it was still dirty and I ended up shampooing my hair the day after so it was a service I could have skipped out on. In a video done by popular beauty journalist Joselyn Davis, she reaches out to a Devacurl hairstylist from their popular salon in NYC and he claims the issues that DevaCurl users were having were caused by incorrect cleansing. In a video done by a celebrity hairstylist Brad Mondo who also has his own hair care line, he credits then complaints caused by DevaCurl to avoiding cleansing. The overall consensus seems to be that a co-wash is to be used in-between shampoo sessions and not to replace shampoo. Harsh shampoos with sulfates are to always be avoided and a gentle sulfate-free shampoo should be a part of everyone's cleansing routine.
As Always Thanks For Keeping Up With Kat
Brittany York can be contacted for natural hair appointments via Instagram: @Brittany_York
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